Pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/transafrica2/
Our waking up time this morning is just silly! We get up at 3am to be ready to meet our bus driver at 3.30, in order to join the convoy at 4am! This is all to see the Temple of Abu Simbel and other minor sites in the area, all in all a return journey of around 560km. Abu Simbel is an absolute must-see site as it not only shows what the ancient Egyptians could do without modern technology, but also what modern experts can do with modern day technology and equipment! In the late 1960’s with the built of the High Dam, the rising waters of Lake Nasser threatened to swallow this 3200 year old monument. However, the world in the form of UNESCO and the Egyptian authorities united in a 40 million US dollar project to move it block by block to a new site above the rising water level. It was done with such precision (all cuts were sawn by hand and are no wider than 4mm!) that it is impossible to notice today that it was moved.
The Temple of Abu Simbel was built by Ramses II to glorify his cult-like personality, but was only re-discovered by a Swiss explorer in 1813 when only the one head of a statue was visible above the sand. There is also a smaller temple next door for his favourite wife, Queen Nefertari. The temples are cut into a mountain (these were reconstructed similar to the original mountains) and the main temple’s front entrance consists of 4 colossal statues of a sitting Ramses II, staring into eternity, warning all southern Nubian tribes what they are up against! At the feet of these huge statues are smaller statues of his mother, sons, Queen Nefertari and other members of the royal family. The inside consists of a series of chambers leading to the Sanctuary containing four statues of various gods as well as the deified Ramses. All of the walls inside are beautifully decorated with scenes of Ramses’ battles and spiritual life.
The smaller temple for the Queen next door has an equally beautiful, but much smaller entrance with statues of Nefertari and, you guessed it, Ramses II ! The long way back to Aswan leads us also to the Temple of Philae, dedicated to Isis, mother of the gods. This temple is located on an island and we had to hire a boat (with the usual haggling that goes with it!) to get to it. This temple in its original location, was also threatened by the High Dam, and therefore it was also painstakingly moved, block by block from Philae Island to Agilka Island. The particularity of this temple is its location, surrounded by Lake Nasser, and beautiful summer flowers. It is for this reason that it is called Egypt’s most romantic temple!
During the boat ride back we meet up with two Canadians, Jeff and Nav, on holiday travelling through Egypt. Jeff has to be back at work next Friday, rudely reminding us that there is still such a thing as work existing back in the real world!
After unimpressive visits (yes, they exist even in Egypt!) to the Aswan Dam wall and the Unfinished Obelisk (an absolute must miss!) we go for lunch with our Canadian friends. After good food and interesting conversations, we say our goodbyes and head for the hotel, and more importantly the swimming pool. In the evening it is pizza time with Alberto and Pina, but it is also time to start discussing the preparations we need to do for Sudan!
